May 13 2012, last full day in New Orleans

A bright, sunny day for a change. We strolled around this morning, taking in some street music, and watching people escorting their mothers into restaurants for brunch and lunch (it's Mother's Day here today). Let's hope we can find a spare table this evening!

For the afternoon, we had booked a French Quarter Cemetery walking tour, which sounded really interesting. Cemeteries here are different from most other places, because it is impossible to bury people underground (this is all reclaimed swamp, which is still there about three feet down) so people are buried above ground in stone or concrete structures that look like small houses. Once the "house" is full, the oldest coffin is removed and disposed of, and the decomposed mortal remains are put in a small bag and shoved right to the back of the house with a long pole. Hence the expression in America "I wouldn't touch that with a ten foot pole"!

However, when we arrived at the cemetery, it was closed and locked. The notice pointed out that it is always closed at noon on Sundays, so naturally we were annoyed that the clowns in the "New Orleans Welcome Centre" had sold us a cemetery tour which started at 1pm. What made us extremely annoyed was that they refused any sort of refund because we had been taken on a tour through the French Quarter (which was part of the deal). Those of you who have ever tried to complain about anything in America will know that you might as well beat your head against the wall. They are full of "have a nice day" but can't deal with problems very easily at all. Anyway, as a first step I have e-mailed the City Council, so we'll wait to see if they have anything useful to say.

Our guide, Preston, was really nice and told a few tales, which went some way to making it a pleasant afternoon, but a sour taste has been left, I'm afraid.

If we discover anything astonishing this evening, I'll blog again later. If not, we'll see you in Chicago, where we arrive early afternoon tomorrow.

Jen's bit:   Really like New Orleans, I could probably live here if someone would give me one of their nice little houses with a courtyard. Everyone is very relaxed and although they seem to drink all day (on Bourbon Street), its all very civilised and friendly. Jx

This is the back of a ten dollar bill of the type issued in the nineteenth century by the People's State Bank of Louisiana. The French word Dix (ten) is prominent, and led to this area being referred to as the "Land of the Dix" which soon became "Dixieland". See? Entertainment and Education all in one blog!

The faint shadows of sadder times can be seen in this picture. Above one of the side doorways to this hotel you can just make out the word "Change". The first two letters have been obliterated, for it once said "Exchange". This was the term used for slave sales, and every Sunday, at this hotel, that is exactly what happened back in the day.

On a lighter note, you can still have a drink in May Baily's Place in the Quarter. In the mid-nineteenth century she was a well-known madam and operated a brothel on these premises. Prostitution was, strictly speaking, outlawed. However, May came up with the not-too-original idea of bribing those in authority, which led to this licence, which can still be seen on the bar wall, allowing her to carry on as usual. You may have to click on the picture to enlarge it so that you can read it, but you will see that it confirms that May Baily, "Having paid the tax imposed by Ordinance No 3267 concerning Lewd and Abandoned Women, she is hereby authorised..."etc. You couldn't make it up! (Well, actually, they did!)